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On Spice: Advice, Wisdom, and History with a Grain of Saltiness-Caitlin PenzeyMoog

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A revealing look at the history and production of spices, with modern, no-nonsense advice on using them at home. Every home cook has thoughts on the right and wrong ways to use spices. These beliefs are passed down in family recipes and pronounced by television chefs, but where do such ideas come from? Many are little better than superstition, and most serve only to reinforce a cook’s sense of superiority or cover for their insecurities. It doesn’t have to be this way. These notes On Spice come from three generations of a family in the spice trade, and dozens upon dozens of their collected spice guides and stories. Inside, you’ll learn where spices come from: historically, geographically, botanically, and in the modern market. You’ll see snapshots of life in a spice shop, how the flavors and stories can infuse not just meals but life and relationships. And you’ll get straightforward advice delivered with wry wit. Discover why:Salt grinders are useless Saffron is worth its weight in gold (as long as it’s pure) That jar of cinnamon almost certainly isn’t Vanilla is far more risqué than you think Learn to stop worrying and love your spice rack.

Book On Spice: Advice, Wisdom, and History with a Grain of Saltiness Review :



Chatty, informative, opinionated and intriguing. These are the descriptors that first come to mind as I reluctantly put down this book and start to write about it. Make no mistake, this book is a fun read!The authors grandparents started Penzeys Spice in 1957 and the book is at once a memoir, and a brief but very entertaining run down on the most well known spices, that every cook would (or should be) be familiar with.The first 9 chapters each focus on a single (for me, quite arbitrary) spice, running at around 8-14 pages apiece. I only wish that a much wider variety of spices had been treated in this same extensive way! Chapter headings are: salt, saffron, vanilla, cinnamon & Cassia, Nutmeg & Mace, Cloves, Juniper, Ginger, Cardamom.Each of these chapters, delves headfirst into the history of each spice with fascinating personal anecdotes.Like the time the authors grandfather made it his mission to turn Wauwatosa Wisconsin into the saffron capital of the world by delivering unsolicited saffron bulbs to homeowners, along with hand written growing instructions or a description of cardamom milk tea that the author made as a child with her grandparents, to be set outside all night so it was “imbued with the light of the moon” alongside historical references such as the Saffron war of 15th century Switzerland or a detailed history of how vanilla came to be pollinated by hand outside of its native Mexico (due to the lack of a specific bee native to that region)All entries whether personal or historical are fascinating.Next, we have a single chapter devoted to the Licorice spices: Fennel, Aniseed, Star Anise, Caraway and Coriander. Each seed is given similar treatment to the chapters I mentioned above, but in a much more condensed form. I was disappointed in this, as I felt that surely each of these seeds and in fact each of the other spices, seeds and herbs in this book could have been explored more fully - as with the first 9 chapters. It would have made a weightier tome, but that would have increased the value of the book for me, and I am sure for other readers and the price could have been adjusted accordingly without any complaints from me at least.After the seed chapter the next 22 pages covers Basil, Bay, Chervil, Cilantro, Dill, Fenugreek, Lavender, Marjoram, Mint, Oregano, Parsley, Rosemary, Sage, Savory, Tarragon and Thyme.Next is another seed chapter, Mustard, Cumin, Poppy and Sesame. I am unsure why the seeds are split up into two parts and divided by the herb chapter but no matter.Next up is a few pages each on Za’atar & Sumac, the Alliums, Turmeric, Curry, Paprika & Cayenne, Chilis, Pepper (a number of pepper varieties are covered)Appendix A curiously provides a description (with unfortunately no blending recipes) for a few well known and a few less well known and a couple of very obscure spice blends.No explanation is given for the odd (to me) selection covered: Adobo, Advieh, Berbere, Cajun, Chaat Masala, Duqqa/Dukkah, Garam Masala, Harissa, Hawaij, Jerk, Mitmita, Montreal Steak Seasoning, Old Bay, Panch Phoron, Poudre-Douce, Qalat Daqqa, Quatre Epices, Ras El Hanout, Shichimi, Taco, Vadouvan.I assume that perhaps the author didn’t provide blending recipes for the blends described and discussed, as that would have given away family secrets. Or, if the author chose to provide recipes for blends that were not the actual Penzeys blend recipes, then fans of those blends would have been disappointed.So perhaps it was wise not to provide blend recipes. But then, why devote a whole chapter to an arbitrary selection of blends at all, when the space could have instead have been used to expand on the other spices given short shrift, or in fact could have covered more territory with a few spices not covered in this book? I just don’t understand the selection of blends discussed. It isn’t a list of common blends that the average person would generally have on their shelf. Perhaps it was a list of the authors favorites? The reasons for the selections weren’t mentioned.Perhaps it would have been more helpful to discuss some new ways one could use some common blends in order to get some extra miles out of what is commonly purchased?There is no way of telling why those ones are included and others are not. But as someone who has a vast selection of spices and makes all of the blends I use from the large array of spice books that I have avidly collected, even I have not heard of some of these blends and am not much the wiser on them now.For example, the 3 scant sentences on Mitmita for example tells us it is an Ethiopian blend used both within whole dishes especially a raw meat dish called Kitfo and as a condiment, as with injera bread.I wondered if perhaps Penzeys sells Mitmita (no, I just checked and it isn’t available from Penzeys online) so the blend recipe so that readers could make this blend, could actually have been included along with some recipes for using it. But after introducing this blend, an interested reader would need to track down the blend, or track down a recipe to make the blend themselves, and then work out how to use it (assuming they do not want to use it in the raw meat dish discussed, even if they could find a recipe for THAT) All in all, this odd chapter on blends, just seems like an early broad outline for a section that didn’t get expanded upon.Next we have the recipe chapter.Don’t buy the book for the recipes alone (obviously there are other very good reasons to purchase this book) because there are only 31 food recipes (most are extremely simple) and 6 drink recipes.The recipes themselves are an odd selection:Aleppo eggs (scrambled eggs with some Aleppo pepper and garlic powder (perhaps this could have been a suggestion in the pepper chapter, not a full page recipe) and another full page devoted to scrambled eggs with garlic and onion powder and a dash of oregano (again maybe a suggestion in the herb chapter would have sufficed?)Also, there are three oatmeal recipes: Banana Cinnamon Oatmeal (stovetop oats with cinnamon, vanilla, walnuts and a banana) or another recipe for oatmeal with the same ingredients sans banana with the addition of candied ginger and a third odd oatmeal inclusion - savory curry oatmeal (oatmeal with curry powder, raisins and almonds)I myself wouldn’t not make a tomato basil soup with 2 cans of condensed tomato soup and some fresh ingredients (onion and bell pepper) with some basil and a can of crushed tomatoes. But then I confess to having a huge issue with any recipe that contains cans of soup. I avoid those recipes like the plague, but that’s just me being a canned soup nazi.I also don’t think I want to roast a head of broccoli with ¼ cup of taco seasoning but then I don’t have small broccoli adverse kids at home any longer. I can imagine trying this when I did, so maybe I shouldn’t knock it, and hey maybe it’s good for adults who like broccoli too? If I try it, and I like it (I suppose I really must, now) I will come back and let you know.One incredibly simple recipe which DOES sound very good to me is yoghurt mixed with dried orange peel or fresh orange zest and saffron. Perhaps it didn’t need to be a full recipe. Simple yes, but loving saffron as I do, and saffron with orange sounds divine, so I would make this and I will!There are a lot of other extremely simple recipes like baked sweet potato with Cajun seasoning and fried fish with paprika and cayenne or seasoned potato shoestring fries or shop bought pita sprinkled with herbs and spices, saffron rice, rosemary skillet potatoes, spiced roasted chickpeas and a bread dipping oil recipe.There are a couple of recipes that were of more interest to me than those I mentioned above. Namely Saffron Shortbread Squares, Cardamom Crisps, Anise Almond Cookies, Aloo Gobi (an Indian curry with cauliflower, potato, jalapeno and fresh cilantro) and a leek macaroni and cheese because who doesn’t need another mac and cheese recipe, and I haven’t ever put leeks in mine before, but that sounds good to me!There is one recipe that I confess that I truly wish that the author had renamed. I am sure it is good, and perhaps this is a family name for an old favorite, but no matter how wonderful chicken noodle soup is when you are ill, calling it Sick Soup to me has such vile connotations that I would have a hard time eating it after calling it that even when I was in full health!Let me finish my recipe discussion here with one terrific sounding drink recipe (thre are others but this one is pretty exciting): The Smoking Bishop. First introduced in the Clove chapter as the drink referred to in Charles Dickens A Christmas Carol, it is a wonderful sounding concoction involving roasting clove studded oranges then adding them to a simmering pot of port, brandy, brown sugar and spices. I will try this and report back. I am already having visions of doing this for the family Christmas I host every year. It’s still cold out as I write this so a perfect time to test it out. Hmm, can my husband and I put away the full recipe by ourselves? That remains to be seen.In conclusion there is some wonderful material here. This book is a page turner for someone like me who loves spices. Additionally, her personal stories also resonated deeply with me, as someone who was strongly influenced by my grandmother who would make me tea parties with “fairy sandwiches” out of home made rose petal jam, and who dyed wool with herbs and spices, and who taught me to press cloves into an orange so that my closet would smell wonderful all year round. My grandmothers whimsical side left me with treasured memories that I carry close to my heart. Ms Penzey Moogs stories of her family are similarly heartwarming and precious.For fans of Penzeys Spices, this book will be an entertaining and evocative page turner full of facts you didn’t know about the common spices in your cabinets. If you don’t have any other books on the history and the use of various spices, or if you are interested to know more about the Penzey empire, then this book is a winner.Whilst I think that it could have been expanded upon in some sections and perhaps other sections could have been skipped altogether, overall, as someone who has dozens upon dozens of spice books, this one is still a very welcome addition to my shelves and contains historical facts not reproduced in my other books, and the personal stories alone are well worth buying the book for.If this review was helpful to you, you might like to check out my other recipe book reviews by navigating to my profile. You can also sign up to be notified when I post other reviews by clicking the follow button on my profile page. I spend a lot of time on my reviews to help others filter through all the crap out there. If this has been helpful to you would you please click the helpful button? It is always a thrill to see my reviews have been read and enjoyed by like-minded people. Thank you :)
I'm going to keep this review short and sweet. Firstly, because I am writing only very few book reviews these days. Amazon's recent shenanigans regarding reviews and reviewers ticked me off. But, secondly, because the top review pretty well describes the book and the writing.What I would add is that the author touched upon her early life and the love observed from her grandparents in the spice store her family operated in Wisconsin, and how she more or less took it for granted until the day she realized it was gone. Gone along with a way of life. I wish more kids could and would grow up with the same sort of loving, affectionate upbringing. I've got to believe thw world would be much better for it.Anyway, in my household, my wife and I have discussions about the difference between spicey and flavorful. Unfortunately, the author does even less to clear it up for my wife, but I loved the way Caitlin PenzeyMoog combined the essense of seasoning with herbs and spices. Rather than debate the semantics, she explains the value of all three to the cook at home. I agree with her.I especially appreciated learning from her that there is no right way, and no wrong way to use the flavoring agents. EXPERIMENT, she says. I say, right on!BOTTOM LINEIf you're a cook wanting to improve the quality of the food you prepare, I heartily recommend "On Spice."Five stars out of five.

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